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Hemerocallis
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Click here for our printable Hemerocallis Growing Guide.

Maleny Tapestry

A sample of our range of Hemerocallis at a plant fairAbout our Hemerocallis:

Our Hemerocallis are grown at our garden nursery in South Cheshire. Most are field grown in stock beds or 1.5lt pots depending on the season and how much stock we have of a particularly variety. Plants are sent as large bare root plants (nearly always multiple fans) (see our mail order pages), and they establish very well at most times of the year.  Plants can be delivered to plant fairs or collected from us in Hankelow, Cheshire. 

Descriptions and Photos

All photos are taken here in our garden and have not been "enhanced" in any way. Colour and form of some varieties are very dependent on light levels and temperature as well as the maturity of the plant. We try our hardest to ensure that our photos give an accurate idea of what you can expect from the flowers in conditions prevalent in Cheshire. We have found that the quality of bloom improves through the season with some plants. In our conditions some varieties do not obtain full braided edges or complete contrast of eye as seen in photos from Florida - our photos tell it as it is.

In common with most growers we base our descriptions on the breeder's as registered with the American Hemerocallis Society. However we amend these descriptions to more accurately reflect colour, shape, height and blooming time based on our own experience.

Hemerocallis Rajah in late January, winter dormant varieties already well into growthDormancy:

There are 3 basic variations:

  • Winter dormant: - the foliage dies back in response to shorter days to a resting bud beneath the ground. However most types begin into growth in late winter. For example H.Rajah has leaves 6-9" tall by late February.
  • Semi Evergreen - the foliage dies back to 5 or 6" in response to cold weather, but may some remain on the plant throughout the winter
  • Evergreen: the foliage remains green and some growth occurs throughout the winter. However, cold weather will kill the leaves and it is best to clear away this mushy green foliage to avoid rotting of new leaf buds.

Frost tenderness is not directly linked to any of the dormancy types. In most of the UK Hemerocallis are hardy. In colder continental climates or extreme climates in the UK they should be mulched.

Planting

Hemerocallis grow in a wide range of soils and situations. Some authorities say that well-drained soil is best, but we have successfully grown them in our bog garden. For best results add lots of compost or well rotted manure at planting time, but if you can't (and, be honest, who ever has enough organic matter to add to planting holes?) they will grow in most soils and in most sites but may not get as tall and have smaller or fewer flowers..

They love sun but will grow in fairly heavy shade - particularly the taller more vigorous cultivars. Our particular favourite for "getting on with it" is Rajah, a grow anywhere plant: we have left roots on top of the compost heap over winter only to see them shoot into life in February.

You can plant at most times of the year including midsummer. If you received newly divided plants in autumn or winter it might be best to pot them up and put them in the greenhouse or cold frame or under a polycloche. However, at our nursery covered space is at a very rare premium and daylilies just have to put up with winter in the open in pots.

Growing

Keep them well watered, avoiding wetting the flowers and buds if possible, mulch in late spring, remove dead foliage and feed with a balance fertiliser once a year. Watering is most effective just before flowering.

Deadhead spent blooms. They turn into a soggy mess then dry smeared over the leaves and other buds. Beware that the deadheads can stain clothing and skin - these stains will normally come out with detergent. 

Hemerocallis bud infected with gall midgePests and Diseases

Generally trouble free in the UK. Slugs and snails may be a short term problem on young foliage, but most plants shrug this off as they grow.  Greenfly may infest plants grown in greenhouses - look down into the growing points of the plants to find them. Squash or spray.

Buds of early flowering varieties can be affected by Gall Midge. This is a tiny moth that lays its eggs on developing buds causing the buds to swell unnaturally. The maggots hatch and feed on the buds. Buds become swollen and round and eventually drop off. The bud on the left of the this picture shows the early stages of infection - ribbed and swollen at the base. As you can see the rest of the buds are fine and providing the infected bud is removed they will flower normally.  This pest is absent in some years and more noticeable in others. The best treatment is to pick off and dispose of infected bud. Spraying and winter soil drenches are possible treatments but we grow 1000's of plant and find removing the few infected buds at an early stage is the best treatment. Don't allow buds to fall on the ground as the maggots lay in the soil surface and then produce more adults 1 or 2 year later.

Propagation

Dig up and divide plants ensuring each piece has a fresh leaf fan or dormant leaf bud showing. New plants grow from the woody rhizome not the long roots. They can be grown from seed but won't be the same as their parents.