8th
December:
Winter pruning of perennials. Part 2. (This information
is now available as printable guide)Herbaceous
Perennials: Carrying on from the first part of this discussion (21st
November) lets deal with herbaceous perennials. The term herbaceous
tells us that they grow their stems and leaves fresh each year so it is
okay to cut them back to the ground each year. The question of timing
remains. For tenderish
perennials it is sometimes worth leaving the top growth on until late
winter as this provides a little protection to the crown (the part where
new shoots and leaves appear from) of the plant. The old shoots trap some
warmer air around the plant. In
windy areas it might be worth shortening the stems to avoid too much
wind-rock which will disturb the roots. Plants that I leave top growth on
include Lobelia tupa, Lobelia
laxifolia, Salvia patens, Maclayea
and Lepechinia. Some
plants its best to leave the top growth on to provide winter interest. I'm
enjoying Eryngium
x.zabelii Jewel (right) dusted with frost today - all Eryngiums have
great winter interest so leave cutting them back. Other good subjects
include: Agastache,
Morina,
Phlomis tuberosa, Eupatorium,
Francoa, Monarda. Other
plants do look good but I cut them back to avoid inferior self-seeds -
examples include Rudbeckia
and Echinacea.
On the other hand I leave the stems and heads on Verbena
bonariensis to encourage self
seeding. Also in a mild winter the stems remain alive and re-sprout from
high up the plant resulting in early flowering. Another
reason to leave old stems in place until March is to provide a home for
ladybirds - our Lobelia tupa stems are hollow and ideal hibernating places
for them. When cutting stems down
consider the following. If the plants doesn't start into growth early I
leave 2 or 3 inches of stem to mark the position of the crown (e.g. Eupatorium).
If stem is hollow I cut back to the soil level to
discourage (but not prevent entirely) earwigs and wood lice burrowing down
into the crown. |